Explore these mysterious sites and you’ll agree: It’s weird
at the top of the world
You can’t make this stuff up. During winters that plunge to
60-below, and summers where a day lasts for months, the world gets downright
bizarre. Frozen volcanoes bulge from the tundra, erupting in super-slow motion.
Lakes vanish, draining through a hole in the permafrost. Underground fires spit
sparks in the Arctic night. And rivers rage with waves so big they're a
perpetual tsunami.
Up here, you’ll see things you could never imagine. Welcome
to the land of mystery – the place that is stranger than fiction.
Bear Rock Sinkhole
Between the towns of Tulita and Norman Wells, in the great
roadless core of the Northwest Territories, dozens of sinkholes pit the forest
– odd, disfiguring pockmarks in the face of Mother Earth. The most famous is
this one, northwest of Bear Rock, with plunging sides and deep aquamarine
waters. Scientists say it was formed by the collapse of a vast subterranean
cave.
Scimitar Canyon
Nahanni National Park Reserve is slashed by all sorts of
gaping gorges, but the most dramatic is this dangerous, dark, sheer-sided,
unexplored incision – legendary Scimitar Canyon. It’s 20 kilometers long, very
narrow and mysteriously deep. It was formed eons ago when the Ram River slit
open the Ram Plateau, carving the most fearsome chasm you’ll ever peer into.
The Smoking Hills
On the shores of Cape Bathurst in the Western Arctic, the
bleak Smoking Hills have smoldered for centuries, sending sulphuric soot
billowing over the Northwest Passage. A place of fire and brimstone, the area
is underlain with oil shales that spontaneously ignite when exposed to air.
Just to the east is the community of Paulatuk – the name of which means,
appropriately, “place of coal.”
Lotus Flower Tower
Revered as "one of the most aesthetically beautiful
rock faces in the world," Lotus Flower Tower is a sheer, breathtaking
2,200-foot cliff – one of the world's tallest, most severe walls of stone. The
signature face in the Cirque of the Unclimables, this skyscraping escarpment
attracts world-class alpinists. It's not for the faint of heart: It takes iron
guts to keep your cool when there's a half-mile of thin air between you and
terra firma.
The Bottomless Lake
Beneath Great Slave Lake’s whitecaps lies a deep secret – a
mysterious, watery abyss unrivaled in North America. At a point not far
offshore from the community of Łutselk’e, the lake-bottom falls away two-thirds
of a kilometer – the deepest point in North America. It’s unclear how far down
it goes. The official figure is 614 meters – 2,014 feet. But according to
researchers who recently conducted bathymetric soundings, there are trenches
that reach even farther down – by 30 meters, or maybe more.
The Ice Roads
Each winter the length of the highway in the Northwest Territories
doubles, as a network of ice roads are built atop frozen lakes, rivers and even
the Arctic Ocean. Most of the routes are underlain by ice four feet thick –
strong enough to hold up a jumbo jet. But every so often the highway gives way,
threatening to send unlucky vehicles to their watery doom.
Rabbitkettle Tufa
Mound
Like a bizarre lunar stalagmite, the largest tufa mound in
Canada rises near the shores of the Rabbitkettle River in Nahanni National
Park. Thirty meters tall and 10,000 years old, the mound is formed by thermal
springs that burble from the volcanic ground, leaching calcium carbonate that
hardens into a crust of tufa. Take off your shoes and follow park officials on
a barefoot hike to the delicate summit.
The Rapids of the
Drowned
The name's no joke. Where the vast Slave River crashes into
the Precambrian Shield just shy of Fort Smith, it explodes into a maelstrom of
house-high waves, log-eating whirlpools, and galloping currents. The features
have names that range from the sublime to the ridiculous – like Rollercoaster,
Rockem Sockem, Land of A Thousand Holes, and the one pictured above, legendary
Molly's Nipple.
The Bottom of Con
Mine
Plunging 6,240 feet into the Earth's crust, the bottom of
Yellowknife's defunct Con Mine is one of the deepest man-made points on Earth.
Despite Arctic conditions up at the surface, miners at the base had to contend
with sweltering heat. Indeed, at nearly two kilometers down, the mine is so
warm that the city of Yellowknife has considered tapping its geothermal
potential, pumping hot water from the depths to warm local buildings.
The Fairy Meadows
Described as a magical oasis in a cathedral of peaks, or as
the eye of a mountainous hurricane, the legendary Fairy Meadow is the
Shangri-La of Nahanni National Park Reserve. A plush pasture, luxuriant with
delicate alpine wildflowers, it is ringed by the impossibly steep Cirque of the
Unclimbables – an amphitheater of sheer peaks that beckon the best
rock-climbers in the world.
The Lake That Fell
Off a Cliff
Now you see it ... now you don't. A few years ago, residents
of Fort McPherson were warned of the impending "catastrophic
drainage" of this 1.5-hectare lake, about 20 kilometers west of the
community. Soon after, in a massive, muddy, five-story-high waterfall, the
lake all but emptied – the victim of thawing permafrost, which undermined its
embankment. No one was injured in the resulting flash-flood, but 30,000 cubic meters of water engulfed the downstream drainage.
Ibyuk Pingo
The most popular attraction in Tuktoyaktuk is this great
green mound, swelling high above the Arctic coast. As tall as a 15-story
the building, it’s called Ibyuk Pingo – the most massive pingo in Canada. Engorged
with ice, it is slowly expanding, like a Coke can bulging ominously in the
freezer. Eventually, like that can, it will split its top and burst, then sag
back into the tundra.
The Peak with No Name
Trivia question: What’s the name of the NWT’s tallest
mountain? If you said “I don’t know,” then you’re correct. The territory’s
highest peak – a 2,773-metre summit in the Ragged Range, just east of the Yukon
border – doesn’t have a name. Informally, the icy rampart is sometimes called
Mt. Nirvana, or Summit 2773, or Summit 9027 (its height in feet), or simply
Unnamed Peak. Yet the Geographical Names Board of Canada doesn’t accept these
names. The official name must come from the Nahanni Butte Dene Band, in whose
traditional territory the peak lies. Thus far, the band has not supplied a
name.
The Salt Plains
Just off Highway 5 near Fort Smith is the famous Salt
Plains, where visitors can trek across a vast sparkling-white field, formed by
saline water burbling from deep inside the Earth. The crystalline landscape
supports unique species of salt-tolerant plants and attracts animals (wolves,
bison, bears and more) that use the area as a salt-lick. People, too, have long
gathered salt here – it was harvested commercially during the fur-trade days,
and it's tempting to pinch a bit today.
The World’s Biggest
Beaver Dam
Beavers are famously busy – but in Wood Buffalo National
Park, they’ve been working overtime. In the remote corner of the vast park lies
the planet’s biggest beaver dam – the work of generations of beavers that have
been gnawing away at the forest since at least the 1970s. Nearly a kilometer
long, it impounds a decent-sized swamp. The dam is so big that it can be seen
from space – indeed, researchers discovered while poring over satellite data.
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