Flannan Isles Lighthouse is a lighthouse near the highest
point on Eilean Mòr, one of the Flannan Isles in the Outer Hebrides off the
west coast of mainland Scotland. It is best known for the mysterious disappearance
of its keepers in 1900.
History
The 23-metre (75 ft) lighthouse was designed by David Alan
Stevenson for the Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB). Construction, between 1895
and 1899, was undertaken by George Lawson of Rutherglen at a cost of GB£6,914
(equivalent to £764,480 in 2018) inclusive of the building of the landing
places, stairs, railway tracks etc. All of the materials used had to be hauled
up the 45-metre (148 ft) cliffs directly from supply boats, no trivial task in
the ever-churning Atlantic. A further £3,526 was spent on the shore station at
Breasclete on the Isle of Lewis.[4] It was first lit on 7 December 1899.
The purpose of the railway tracks was to facilitate the
transport of provisions for the keepers and fuel for the light (paraffin, at
that date; the light consumed twenty barrels a year) up the steep gradients
from the landing places by means of a cable-hauled railway. This was powered by
a small steam engine in a shed adjoining the lighthouse. A track descended from
the lighthouse in a westerly direction and then curved round to the south. In
the approximate centre of the island it forked by means of a set of
hand-operated points humorously dubbed "Clapham Junction"; one branch
continued in its curvature to head eastwards to the east landing place, on the
south-east corner of the island, thus forming a half-circle, while the other,
slightly shorter, branch curved back to the west to serve the west landing,
situated in a small inlet on the island's south coast. The final approaches to
the landing stages were extremely steep. The cable was guided round the curves
by pulleys set between the rails, and a line of posts set outside the inner
rail prevented it from going too far astray should it jump off the pulleys. The
cargo was carried in a small four-wheeled bogie.
In 1925, the lighthouse was one of the first Scottish lights
to receive communications from the shore by wireless telegraphy. In the 1960s, the island's transport system
was modernized. The railway was removed, leaving behind the concrete bed on
which it had been laid to serve as a roadway for a "Gnat" – a
three-wheeled, rubber-tyred cross-country vehicle powered by a
400-cubic-centimetre (24 cu in) four-stroke engine, built by Aimers McLean of
Galashiels. This had a somewhat shorter working life than the railway, becoming
redundant in its turn when the helipad was constructed.
On 28 September 1971, the lighthouse was automated. A
reinforced concrete helipad was constructed at the same time to enable
maintenance visits in heavy weather. The light is produced by burning acetylene
gas and has a range of 17 nautical miles; 20 miles (32 km). It is now monitored
from the Butt of Lewis[8] and the shore station has been converted into flats.
Disappearances in
1900
Discovery
The first record that something was abnormal on the Flannan
Isles was on 15 December 1900 when the steamer Archtor, on a passage from
Philadelphia to Leith, noted in its log that the light was not operational in
poor weather conditions. When the ship docked in Leith on 18 December 1900, the
sighting was passed onto the Northern Lighthouse Board. The relief vessel, the lighthouse tender
Hesperus, was unable to sail from Breasclete, Lewis, as planned on 20 December
due to adverse weather; it did not reach the island until noon on 26 December. The lighthouse was manned by three men: James
Ducat, Thomas Marshall, and Donald McArthur, with a rotating fourth man
spending time on shore.
On arrival, the crew and relief keeper found that the
flagstaff had no flag, all of the usual provision boxes had been left on the
landing stage for re-stocking, and more ominously, none of the lighthouse
keepers were there to welcome them ashore. Jim Harvie, the captain of Hesperus,
attempted to reach them by blowing the ship's whistle and firing a flare, but
was unsuccessful.
A boat was launched and Joseph Moore, the relief keeper, was
put ashore alone. He found the entrance gate to the compound and the main door
both closed, the beds unmade, and the clock stopped. Returning to the landing
stage with this grim news, he then went back up to the lighthouse with
Hesperus' second-mate and a seaman. A further search revealed that the lamps
had been cleaned and refilled. A set of oilskins was found, suggesting that one
of the keepers had left the lighthouse without them, which was surprising
considering the severity of the weather on the date of the last entry in the
lighthouse log. The only sign of anything amiss in the lighthouse was an
overturned chair by the kitchen table. There was no sign of any of the keepers,
neither inside the lighthouse nor anywhere on the island.
Moore and three volunteer seamen were left on the island to
attend the light and Hesperus returned to Lewis. Captain Harvie sent a telegram
to the Northern Lighthouse Board dated 26 December 1900, stating:
A dreadful accident
has happened at the Flannans. The three keepers, Ducat, Marshall and the
Occasional have disappeared from the Island... The clocks were stopped and
other signs indicated that the accident must have happened about a week ago.
Poor fellows they must have been blown over the cliffs or drowned trying to
secure a crane.
On Eilean Mòr, the men
scoured every corner of the island for clues as to the fate of the keepers.
They found that everything was intact at the east landing but the west landing
provided considerable evidence of damage caused by recent storms. A box at 33
metres (108 ft) above sea level had been broken and its contents strewn about;
iron railings were bent over, the iron railway by the path was wrenched out of
its concrete, and a rock weighing more than a ton had been displaced. On top of
the cliff at more than 60 metres (200 ft) above sea level, turf had been ripped
away as far as 10 metres (33 ft) from the cliff edge. The missing keepers had
kept their log until 9 a.m. on 15 December. The entries made it clear that the
damage had occurred before their disappearance.
Speculation and
conjecture
No bodies were ever found, resulting in "fascinated
national speculation" in newspapers and periodicals of the period. Implausible stories ensued, such as a sea
serpent (or giant seabird) had carried the men away; they had arranged for a
ship to take them away and start new lives, they had been abducted by foreign
spies; or they had met their fate through the malevolent presence of a boat
filled with ghosts (the baleful influence of the "Phantom of the Seven
Hunters" was widely suspected locally). More than ten years later, the events were
still being commemorated and elaborated on. The 1912 ballad Flannan Isle by
Wilfrid Wilson Gibson refers erroneously to an overturned chair and uneaten
meal laid out on the table, indicating that the keepers had been suddenly
disturbed.
Yet, as we crowded through the door,
We only saw a table spread
For dinner, meat, and cheese and bread;
But, all untouch'd; and no-one there,
As though, when they sat down to eat,
Ere they could even taste,
Alarm had come, and they in haste
Had risen and left the bread and meat,
For at the table head a chair
Lay tumbled on the floor.
However, in a first-hand account made by Moore, the relief
keeper, he stated that: "The kitchen utensils were all very clean, which
is a sign that it must be after dinner some time they left."
On 29 December 1900, Robert Muirhead, a Northern Lighthouse
Board (NLB) superintendent, arrived to conduct the official investigation into
the incident. Muirhead had originally recruited all three of the missing men and
knew them personally.
Muirhead's examination of the lighthouse log book revealed
some highly unusual entries. On December 12, Thomas Marshall wrote of
"severe winds the likes of which I have never seen before in twenty
years". He also reported that James Ducat had been ‘very quiet’ and Donald
McArthur had been crying. McArthur was a veteran mariner with a reputation for
brawling, and thus it would be strange for him to be crying in response to a
storm. Log entries on the 13th of December stated that the storm was still
raging, and that all three men had been praying. This was also puzzling, as all
three men were experienced lighthouse keepers who knew they were in a secure
structure 150 feet above sea level and should have known they were safe inside.
Furthermore, there had been no reported storms in the area on the 12th, 13th
and 14th of December, meaning that either the entries documenting the storm
were made up or the storm was highly localized. The final log entry was made on the 15th of
December, stating ‘Storm ended, sea calm. God is over all’.
He examined the clothing left behind in the lighthouse and
concluded that James Ducat and Thomas Marshall had gone down to the western
landing stage, and that Donald McArthur (the 'Occasional') had left the
lighthouse during heavy rain in his shirt sleeves. He noted that whoever left
the light last and unattended was in breach of NLB rules. He also noted that some of the damage to the
west landing was "difficult to believe unless actually seen".
From evidence which I was able to procure I was satisfied
that the men had been on duty up till dinner time on Saturday the 15th of
December, that they had gone down to secure a box in which the mooring ropes,
landing ropes etc. were kept, and which was secured in a crevice in the rock
about 110 ft (34 m) above sea level, and that an extra-large sea had rushed up
the face of the rock, had gone above them, and coming down with immense force,
had swept them completely away.
Whether this explanation brought any comfort to the families
of the lost keepers is unknown. The deaths of Thomas Marshall, James Ducat (who
left a widow and four children), and Donald MacArthur (who left a widow and two
children) cast a shadow over the lighthouse service for many years.
Later theories and
interpretations
Subsequent researchers have taken into account the geography
of the islands. The coastline of Eilean
Mòr is deeply indented with narrow gullies called geos. The west landing, which
is situated in such a geo, terminates in a cave. In high seas or storms, water
would rush into the cave and then explode out again with considerable force. It
was possible MacArthur may have seen a series of large waves approaching the
island, and knowing the likely danger to his colleagues, ran down to warn them
only to be washed away as well in the violent swell. Recent research by James Love discovered that
Marshall was previously fined five shillings when his equipment was washed away
during a huge gale. It is likely, in seeking to avoid another fine, which he
and Ducat tried to secure their equipment during a storm and were swept away as
a result. The fate of MacArthur, although required to stay behind to man the
lighthouse, can be guessed to be the same. Love speculates that MacArthur
probably tried to warn or help his colleagues and was swept away too. This theory also has the advantages of
explaining the set of oilskins remaining indoors and MacArthur's coat remaining
on its peg, although perhaps not the closed door and gate. Another theory is based on the first-hand
experiences of Walter Aldebert, a keeper on the Flannans from 1953 to 1957. He
believed one man may have been washed into the sea but then his companions, who
were trying to rescue him, were washed away by more freak waves.
A further proposal is based on the psychology of the
keepers. Allegedly MacArthur was a volatile character; this may have led to a
fight breaking out near the cliff edge by the West Landing that caused all
three men to fall to their deaths. Another theory is that one of the men went
insane (perhaps MacArthur, as evidenced by him leaving the lighthouse without
his rain gear and his strange behavior documented in the log book), murdered
the other two, threw their bodies into the sea, and then jumped in to his own
death.
Among modern theories are those connected to paranormal
activity, such as abduction by aliens. Fictional use of this premise was
featured in the Doctor Who serial Horror of Fang Rock. The
mystery also was the inspiration for the composer Peter Maxwell Davies's modern
chamber opera The Lighthouse (1979). The
British rock group Genesis wrote and recorded "The Mystery of Flannan Isle
Lighthouse" in 1968 while working on their first album, but it was not
released until 1998 in Genesis Archive 1967–75. The 2018 film The Vanishing is
also based on the same story.
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